Video of our trip, filmed by me, edited by my hubby Jeremy. (Follow his channel!)
On July 4th weekend, days after our wedding, we met up with our friends Natalie & John, on the state line that straddles Arizona & Utah, for a camping trip on Lake Powell.
We hadn’t really researched anything before arriving, so we were in awe to see the sun rise over Lone Rock (6.5-hour drive from Albuquerque, NM). Lone Rock Beach Campground is technically in Utah, and is aptly named for the massive island of a rock that protrudes out of one corner of Lake Powell. There is a campground of deep sand, where 4x4 trucks line the edges and set up their tents wherever there is room.
The entire area of Lake Powell is striking: The water is a clear turquoise blue juxtaposed with red-orange rock walls. It’s candy for your eyes!
It was easy to secure a rental motorboat at the marina. The guys also rented a wakeboard for the day, too. A guide hopped on board and ran over all the basics of boating and maneuvering this particular type of boat, and then carefully went over a map of the lake and outlined places we should check out and places to be wary of. Much of the rock walls go straight down into the water, allowing you to bring your boat up to the wall, but some of the rock walls have a hidden “shelf” just feet under the water–obviously something you want to avoid at all costs. Often, you can tell where a shelf juts out by paying attention to the change in color in the water…if the turquoise turns a green/yellow, there is likely a rock there.
My favorite parts of the boat ride were definitely the canyons. Surprisingly, there were very few boats exploring the canyon, so we were relatively secluded on our adventures. The waves were reduced drastically in these rock-walled water pathways, so it was easy to throw out an anchor and go swimming in the canyon nooks. The pathway through Antelope Canyon got slimmer and slimmer, until we had to pull an Austin-Powers-20-Point-Turn to get the boat turned back around. …So worth it! The water there was sparkling a brilliant color of turquoise and bouncing off the rock walls. I’ve never seen anything quite like it!
The next morning, we headed to Lower Antelope Canyon, where you can hike the more narrow part of the canyon. Beware: Instagram photos of this are very deceiving…this place is a massive tourist attraction. Photos (including our own), make it look like you can wander this place on your own in solitude, but it’s not actually the case. You need to get to the Reservation super early in order to buy your place “in line.” Even though we got there in the morning, the time for our tour wasn’t going to be until late in the afternoon (and that’s because we got lucky & swapped with some kind guy in line). The lines are long. And when you get back for your tour, the lines are even longer and you’re standing in the sun waiting your turn to go into the canyon.
We killed time by heading down the street to Horseshoe Bend–the infamous overlook of a perfect bend in the green Colorado River. Again, I was surprised by the amount of tourists peering over the edge. We wandered off to a side where we found more seclusion and could take in the majestic sight.
Back at the Reservation, we waited in line with our Navajo guide. We had probably 6-10 people in our group. Apparently, you used to be able to wander this canyon on your own, but after a recent flash flood that killed 11 hikers, the Guides are now required to enter.
The Navajo Guides allow for a few minutes of time between each group, to allow a little space between the tours going in. Once you’ve descended down a very tight and nerve-wracking iron staircase, the Guide will pretty much let you explore each nook, giving occasional tidbits of history. For example, Antelope Canyon is named this because the Native Americans would chase the antelope off the cliffs to their death for their hunts.
It started to sprinkle rain while we were down there …which made me very grateful we had a Guide with us, as I was picturing the hikers trapped by the flash flood. There was nothing to fear though, and we got to see the red rock walls morph before our eyes as water slid down the edges and continued to cut into the crevices.
Despite the wait-time and the amount of tourism to this spot, it’s SO WORTH IT. I’ve never seen a slot canyon like this and it really was incredible to be immersed in. I felt like I was walking through a Georgia O’Keefe painting. The Guide would let us wander ahead of her, so we could explore it on our own for a little bit and get some pictures without the group. Misleading Instagram photos, done. ;)
Dog-owners: Furbabies are not allowed in Antelope Canyon, BUT I found the most amazing lady who pet-sits nearby while you’re on your hike. Check out Pampered Pets in Page, AZ. She was so kind and offered us a discount for both of our dogs. Cooper, our friends’ boxer-pit mix, got to play outdoors with all the other big, playful doggies. CoCo, our tiny anti-social toy poodle, got to stay indoors and cuddle with the other mild-mannered tiny dogs on a big cushy bed. CoCo’s fur had become so wild and matted from weeks of travel & camping, that she even groomed her for us, free of charge! (Cue slight mom-guilt for having such a pitifully ratty dog…).
If you live in the desert or are visiting, this is definitely a spot to cool down and enjoy some awe-inspiring rock formations!
Let’s stay connected so you don’t miss an adventure! Feel free to tag me if you see something awesome I should check out, too!
In November, Jeremy & I travelled to Nicaragua. We were mainly off-the-beaten path, because Jeremy is, in a way, already a “local.” This was his fourth trip there, after living there for some time. While living there, he was a boat captain, a surf instructor and a chef, which afforded him a dream lifestyle of no worries & perfect waves.
I knew that, in a way, he wanted me to learn to love his “other home.” And it was not hard at all to fall in love with this place. In fact, falling in love is now a theme I will always remember with Nicaragua…because it was there that Jeremy proposed! (More on that later…)
To document this adventure, I’ll break it into three parts: Gigante; Ometepe; and Laguna de Apoyo.
Gigante Bay
See the green area of land behind the boat above? That last lump is called “Giant’s Foot,” and this cove in the tiny village of Gigante (outside of Rivas) was where we spent the majority of our 12-day trip.
We arrived in Nicaragua at 1:30 a.m. and had a cab waiting for us outside the airport ($100 –the most expensive purchase of the trip, but well worth it). The cab driver sped through red lights on empty streets and got us to Gigante in about 3 hours. Apparently, this used to be a 5+ hour ride, but they have recently paved (as in, brick-by-brick by hand) most of the route. However, we eventually cut off of the paved road and headed down a very bumpy dirt road for several miles…it’s a doozy!
We didn’t anticipate getting there so early in the day (night?), but Gigante Bay, a surfer hostel, still managed to get us into private room with a private bath. Like any place we stayed in Nicaragua, a “room” really consisted of a mattress, a sheet, a mosquito net, and some cloth over the window. What else do you need??
Original Instagram caption: Red mosquito net during sunrise…. I can’t get over the amazing sounds of the jungle in the early morning–monkeys & birds making the most bizarre of choruses. I’ve never heard such odd, yet beautiful, songs. The thunderous waves keep a constant rhythm all night, the heartbeat of the place. There’s no AC of course, so there’s no glass in the windows–just screens or pieces of cloth…allowing you to be immersed in the sounds & feel the ocean breeze all night. Last night’s beach shack room was perched in the treetops tree-house style with beautiful, rugged wooden steps & driftwood for door handles & railings. Swiss Family Robinson.
Since we arrived in the pitch-black darkness of a village, I had no idea what I was about to wake up to.
It was like the moment Dorothy steps out of her sepia-toned home into the Technicolor world of Oz–complete with birds chirping & soft music.
I stepped out onto the wooden planks of the front deck of Gigante Bay and was immersed in color! We were in a pirate’s cove, for sure!
Colorful hammocks criss-crossed the deck with worn, sandy couches under multi-colored flags. Skull-And-Crossbones flags flapped in the wind and a collage of happy-hippie signs were posted on every spare piece of wall.
The employees all start their day off doing yoga on the beach & thanking the ocean before brewing coffee and making breakfast paninis. The guests quietly took in the sunrise, relaxed in hammocks and practiced their own yoga stretches before a day full of surfing.
I noticed the music started off very relaxing and chill in the mornings, then progressed to tropical reggae then morphed into party music by nightfall.
The guests were mostly English, though from all over the world. America, Asia, Australia, England, Canada, etc. It created a stark contrast with the locals in the village, and yet they were both in perfect harmony.
Take a moment to experience Gigante Bay in photos:
Jeremy painted this board on one of his previous visits & this board broke while he was surfing an epic wave….it’s now mounted on the wall the wall here–I love it!!
Fresh caught tuna smoked on mesquite…
Non-stop beach party…
Next door to Gigante Bay is another great place: Giant’s Foot Surf Tours. You camp out there, and they will take you out on a boat to one of the many great surf breaks and then bring you back home, where they have an excellent chef! (Hellooo, burger night!!) They also offer Beginner & Intermediate Surfer Training. If there was ever a time and place to pick up surfing, it’s now & here.
Relax
The front area of Giant’s Foot Surf Tours has many hammocks just beckoning you to take a nap…
Hammock life is probably the biggest theme of Gigante.
Here’s a local enjoying a shady swing:
Me, every morning at the local coffee shop (one of the few places, besides the surf camps, that has WiFi):
Nearly every local’s porch:
…you get the point.
It seriously was amazing how “chill” everyone in the entire village was. Of course, you would expect that from surfers, but even the townspeople and the DOGS were chill.
I couldn’t help myself…
Original Instagram post: There are wild dogs all over the place in #Nicaragua. No one has dogs for pets it seems, yet there are dogs that just belong to the entire community. In many communities, they are skeletons and covered with sores. Some are just too ill to eat even if you tried to feed them…it’s heart breaking. You can’t pet them, as they bite. However, in the village of Gigante, where we’ve been most of this trip, the community dogs are well fed from table scraps & apparently a vet comes through occasionally to help with any problems. They are timid but appreciate a good ear scratch. If they’re not wandering through a restaurant, they just lay in the sand and nap all day long. They actually have the same vibe as the locals here…just chill, relax, enjoy the beach…no worries, no stress. The Gigante dogs truly are members of this community. They have names & respond to them & have certain locals who you can tell they have an extra special bond with.
Nicaraguan Cuisine
The best part of Play Gigante, is how easy it is to immerse yourself into the culture of Nicaragua. You are extremely isolated (45 minutes from the nearest real grocery store or bank) and have no choice but to become a part of the community. There is no tourist-trap area. The most English areas are the two surf camps, and other than that, you are truly living in Nicaragua.
The handful of restaurants are all open-air, with thatched roofs and dirt floors. While you’re eating authentic Nicaraguan dishes (lots of rice & tostones (double-fried plantains), and fresh seafood), wild dogs will wander past your table. Other animals I saw wandering past my feet: pigs, chickens, and rabbits. Wandering the streets? Bulls, cows and horses. Again, all of the animals are extremely relaxed and happy and just as much a part of the community as the waiter serving you.
Monkeys & Popoyo
My favorite animal experience?? The MONKEYS.
There were large, wild monkeys in the trees in Gigante. They made some crazy grunting sounds and had tails that curled under them. (Here’s a short Instagram video of them.)
But even better, was a restaurant just outside of Playa Gigante, that let you PLAY with the monkeys!
Highlight of my day!!! Playing with a bunch of silly monkeys! They stole about 2,000 in cord cash, tried on my sunglasses, took my purse, rifled through all my pockets & tried desperately to get the iPhone…chaotic & hilarious!! My stomach hurt from laughing so hard!
We rented a motorbike and drove to Yolanda’s Cafe in the nearby town of Popoyo, and asked if we could play with the monkeys (a tip from a local). She led us to the back yard and there was a parrot in a bird cage (who greeted me with an “Hola!”) and a large cage with a few little monkeys inside. “Can we go in?” YES.
Tip: Remove all things in your pocket. Remove jewelry. Remove your purse. Remove your sunglasses. And guard your camera/phone with your life.
These furry professional thieves had a blast taking all of our items, and teasing us as we chased them down. But I can’t remember the last time I laughed that hard! They were characters! Be sure to watch our video where you can see some edited footage of this. …If I showed you the original unedited footage, you would see a lot of the ground zooming by and hear a lot of cursing and laughing…as they were snatching it every second they could. Ha!
Do you see those monkey legs above my back?? This monkey was caught mid-flight jumping from me to Jeremy…wild!
While in nearby Popoyo, check out Nica Waves surf camp, and Magnific Rock. The rock looks like a massive battleship wrecked into a blue lagoon, and there’s a restaurant & bar overlooking it.
While in the area, you can check out the salt fields as well and get a great deal on raw sea salt, crystallized from the Pacific ocean under the Nicaraguan sun.
Chacocente (Popoyo)
We continued further down the coastline to a super-off-the-beaten-path nature reserve, Chacocente. It required us motorbiking down a really rocky, hole-y dirt road through the jungle, and then we arrived to the park center, which had some sketchy looking park cabins and restrooms. The men hanging out at the visitor’s center made me feel nervous as they were ranger with large guns on them, but there was no reason to worry. We signed in and continued down the pathway to the beach.
Jungle hike to the beach
There was absolutely no one on the pristine beach. If you are looking for a stunning, secluded day to yourself, this is the spot. Apparently, if you stay during the night, you can watch turtles hatch, too.
When we got back to Playa Gigante, Jeremy went surfing and I enjoyed a spectacular sunset. There were wild horses behind me eating grass as I sat on the beach, and then a lady on a horse, with another horse trailing behind her, slowly ambled through the shallow waves. Here, I caught one of my favorite photos from the trip–a perfect, quiet moment, with Jeremy in the background silhouetted on a small wave.
Hiking Giant’s Foot
One of the days we spent in Playa Gigante, Jeremy asked me what I wanted to do that day: take the motor bike to a nearby village, go for a hike on Giant’s Foot, or learn surfing.
This particular day, I said “I think going on a hike sounds fun!” Little did I know, he was waiting for me to say that & had plans…
The hike up Giant’s Foot was not for beginners. Several times, you have to scale straight-up slate rock walls.
After successful rock climbing, we were rewarded each time with a more magnificent view. I hadn’t realized that Giant’s Foot was just a division between our cove & the next cove over.
Playa Gigante on the left; Playa Aqua on the right. (Aqua Wellness Resort is located on this next cove. Check out the website to learn more about this stunning, luxurious yoga center. This was on my To Do list, but I unfortunately did not get a chance to try it out first-hand.)
Looking at Playa Aqua
Looking at Playa Gigante
When we made it to the top of Giant’s Foot, I was in awe. Truly breathtaking. We had a 360-degree view of the entire area and the Pacific Ocean. Jeremy was beaming.
He asked me to get on my tummy and crawl to the edge. We crawled together and hung our heads over the edge, staring down a plummeting 340-feet into the ocean. The waves were crashing against giant rocks below. It was dizzying and wonderful. We carefully scooted back and Jeremy asked “So, do you want to take some pictures?” Silly question. Of course I do!
I said, “I want to try and get a panorama of this!” I started slowly going in a circle, trying to capture it all, and noticed Jeremy got down on one knee.
At first, I thought he was just resting after that grueling hike. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw him grinning, and I thought maybe he was trying to do something goofy to mess up my picture (he does things like this often).
When I completed my panorama circle and gave him my full attention, it was quite obvious what he was doing… He had a ring in his outstretched hand and asked me to marry him. …The rest is a blur because I was just so happy! There’s no one else on this earth I’d rather spend my life with…this life of ours will be one epic adventure full of love!
See Jeremy on his knee on the left? xoxoxo
Close-up ;)
Afterwards, Jeremy told me that the peak of Giant’s Foot is his favorite place in the entire world (and he’s seen a lot of places…), and that he’d always known he would ask me there. (awwww…)
Climbing back down…
After the climb down, we trekked over to the Playa Aqua side. Here, the waves were crashing on huge rocks as the tide rolled in. (Here’s a little Instagram video of that.)
Giant’s Foot at sunset…
Affordable Vacation
Our last few nights there, we stayed upstairs at Margarita’s. On average, we paid about $10 a night wherever we stayed in Nicaragua, and a giant meal for both of us cost only $4. This is a great place to go for a tropical vacation that won’t break the bank. However, you have to be fine with no AC & cold showers!
$ Tip: Take only a backpack on Spirit Airlines, for a cheap flight to Managua.
We also spent one afternoon swimming near the rocks at the base of Giant’s Foot. We carefully climbed on the rocks and admired the many colorful urchins and other strange sea creatures living in the shallow pools.
Here’s an Instagram video of the black urchins and pink coral.
Fishing Village
One of my favorite things was drinking fresh coconut juice (piña fresca) & coffee each morning at the local coffee shop, Party Wave. We’d lay on the hammocks and watch the fishermen come in and out with the tides.
It was remarkable seeing them roll the boats in and out with logs, inching them across the beach. Once it had rolled off the log, a young boy would run it around to the other side and it would continue slowly moving in or out.
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Surfing
Jeremy won’t let me post about the best surf spots… You just have to go and ask the locals and discover them on your own.
I’ve already mentioned the surf camps in Playa Gigante. Be sure to check out the NicaWaves surf camp in the nearby Popoyo area! It’s great!
Jeremy even taught ME how to surf!
More Photos From This Scenic Dream-Land…
Want to hear of the other places we visited in Nicaragua? Stay tuned…I’ll have a link to that blog here soon!
It’s been a while since I’ve written, but my goal is to catch back up! Jeremy & I have been busy on so many adventures that I haven’t had a slow weekend to capture it on my blog (be sure to follow me on Instagram to see adventures in real-time).
Carlsbad Caverns… I’m still in awe of this natural wonder, and I can’t wait to go back! You simply cannot even begin to scratch the surface of what the Caverns have to offer in one day. Also, my iPhone photos just don’t do it justice. I have never seen something so magical, and I don’t even know if a professional camera could capture and translate something like this.
The jewel-like labyrinth beneath the desert floor has 119 caves with around 25 named rooms. Over 120 miles of cave passage has been explored and mapped inside Carlsbad Caverns. It has been mapped to a depth of 1,600 feet, making it the second deepest limestone cave in the U.S.
Only 3 caves are open to the public (general admission ticket), but there are several others that you can pay an extra fee for a guided tour with a ranger. (And I don’t mean to discount it by saying “only” 3 caves…you could literally spend an entire day exploring just those 3).
Next time, I aim to get there the minute they open their doors (8:30 a.m.), because I really want to go spelunking with a hard hat and ropes. I want to crawl through tight spaces and take rope ladders into the belly of the earth. On our trip, we arrived around 10 a.m. and all of the harder tours were already completely booked up (which is surprising, because many of the descriptions sounded quite intense and intimidating).
I am SO glad we signed up for the extra tour. We really enjoyed wandering casually among the public caverns (I felt like a kid in Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory…my eyes were boggling out of my head!), but they obviously save the truly magical spots for tours. Now that some time has passed, I’m struggling to remember the name of the particular cavern the ranger took us on–I think it was the Queen’s Chamber or either King’s Palace. It was full of delicate, Baroque-like formations.
Once we were very, very deep into the earth, the ranger had us sit in complete silence and turn off all of the lights….the first time I have ever truly sat in complete and utter darkness. It was spiritual. My eyes were plunged into nothingness, and out of habit, tried (and failed) to focus and recalibrate–to find some sort of light or image to make sense of. Nervousness melted away into meditation. The pure silence revealed that it actually consisted of barely-there groaning and dripping. When he finally relit his lantern and turned on the accent lighting that is strategically places to illuminate the sculpture-like formations, the group was stunned. Honestly, I wish the moment of silent darkness would have gone on for even longer. It was such beautiful moment to me.
We took the elevator down initially, which I think helped save us a lot of time for browsing. At first I was bummed we were missing the walk down, but we got to see it all on our hike back out. You really need to be a fit person, though, if you are going to take the steep walk out. If you are coming down through the mouth of the cave, I recommend you not stop too often to take photos. The initial roof of the cave is enormously high and breathtaking, but don’t take photos of every little stalagmite you see…there are going to be much bigger and beautiful versions x 1000 when you get down to the bottom, I promise.
I was shocked how big of a difference in temperature there was at the mouth of the cave. We were bundled up in jeans and hoodies inside the cool, brisk cave; but outside was a hot desert summer that nearly melted us before we could even get back to the Visitor’s Center! We did not stay to see the bats fly out that evening because they do not allow dogs at the bat show and we needed the few hours that it saved us to get back home, anyway.
Dog and cat owners: they do have an indoor kennel for pets, which I am always extremely grateful for! You just bring your own dog bed and food bowls and they’ll be just fine. It was only a small fee. Another tip: Gas up before you drive to the Caverns–there are no gas stations remotely close! The nearest one is in the town of Carlsbad, 18 miles away (we obviously had a close call…).
Next time, I may camp on the grounds so that I can get to the tour signup sheet bright and early. But this time, we camped elsewhere in the area.
(I’m telling this story in reverse, because I figured you’d want to hear about the Caverns first. Continue reading to hear about “The Adventure”).
(scroll to bottom for more images from Carlsbad Caverns)
The Adventure
We drove down from Albuquerque and zipped past the famous small town of Roswell. It was an extremely hot summer day, and we took the truck, which has no AC. The further south we got, the more I thought we were going to melt into the leather seats.
We thought it was a mirage at first, but lo and behold! A lake appeared suddenly in the middle of the desert. We stopped, ran down the pier and jumped in for a quick dip. Oh my gosh, it was GLORIOUS. We got back in the truck, happy to be soaked and let ourselves air dry as we continued our trip from Brantley Lake. We had lunch in Carlsbad, where our waiter told us about the gorgeous, 100-foot Sitting Bull Falls. The road to head towards the falls is right by the lake, so we went back. It’s exactly one hour from the lake, if you take NM-137 S.
(I swear he’s wearing pants. They are khaki colored! teehee)
However, we somehow managed to get off track from the ‘straight line’ there, and did not make it to the Falls. We saw a Ranger Station and stopped by, where he informed us that there is no longer camping there, anyway, due to vandalism (oh how I loathe those jerks that ruin everything for everyone!). The sun would be setting soon, so we asked him for his recommendation on a nearby spot for us to rest that night. Devil’s Den Canyon/Lonesome Ridge/Camp Wilderness Ridge in Queen, New Mexico (a ghost town) was a new destination, and it was gorgeous! Looking at the Google Map, it is actually on the New Mexico-Texas state line. On one hike, I looked at my phone’s GPS and I think we technically walked into Texas.
Jeremy decided to take the hard route to the Canyon (of course). There was a gravel road we could have taken, but instead, we took the alternate route which was a very rocky dirt road through cow territory. We were going 2mph crawling over large boulders. I felt like I held my breath for at least an hour. At one point, we came across a rock so large, that we had to get out and stack lots of medium-sized rocks in front of it in order to get the truck to climb up. Miraculously, we made it in our little 2-wheel drive truck to our destination.
We stopped several times to just soak in the view…it was just unreal!
About 5 miles before we settled on a camping spot, we came across a herd of cows and their bull blocking the dirt road.
“Don’t look him the eye,” Jeremy instructed, “and keep CoCo quiet.” The bull was not happy about our arrival and he stood firm. Slowly the cows moved out of our way and we drove around the bull without him storming our truck. Safe, right? (Just wait.)
We set up camp, took a lovely hike, and started settling in for the night. It was pitch black outside and I had to go back to the truck to fetch something. I had been hearing some very distant thunder rumbling in the distance, and this time a streak of lightning illuminated the sky.
And that’s when I saw him.
Two eyeballs shining at me with two ivory horns. It looked like a devil beast from nightmares. I couldn’t see anything else of him, and we were plunged back into darkness, but I knew the evil thing was just feet away from me.
After I managed to catch my breath and find my voice: “Ugh, Jeremy?”
“Yeah?”
“Um. …Theres… a bull. …Right. ….There.”
“Back up slowly. Don’t startle him. Slowly get into the bed of the truck. ….where’s CoCo?”
The last thing we needed was little CoCo barking at the bull and ticking him off. If he got mad, he’d start ramming the truck. Next thing I know, we’re all crouched into the truck. I’m holding CoCo’s mouth and snuggling her into my chest so she doesn’t see, smell or hear anything suspicious that will send her into a yipping fit. It felt like an eternity. Jeremy prepared me, in case the bull did start to ram the truck: “See that tree over there? Think you could climb that with CoCo? He’ll ram the tree, too, but he’ll get tired after a while.” GREAT.
He stared us down for a while, and then suddenly decided we were not a threat and snorted as he continued on into the woods. The herd of cows crashed through the bracken behind him.
Okay, we can breathe again!
We snuggled into the tent and could hear the cows moo-ing and making some bizarre un-cow-like sounds for hours afterwards. Then, a terrible thunderstorm rolled through. We got out and put the rain tarp on top of the tent and all cuddled together. The storm was RIGHT OVER us. And we were at the highest point of the canyon’s mountain. A lighting strike cracked SO close to us, I’m surprised a tree didn’t fall on the truck. I’ve never heard such a loud thunder bolt! It was a scary night, but the storm rolled on and we were dry and safe after all.
The next morning was when we headed to Carlsbad Caverns. And after the Caverns, we made a pitstop in Roswell.
…I’ll be honest with you: I was not impressed with Roswell. There’s really not much there. The little historic downtown area had a bunch of tourist gift shops all selling the exact same alien merchandise. There was a one place that was essentially an alien photo booth. But, I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way to visit. It was fine for a 20-minute pitstop on the way back to Albuquerque, though, and we did get some hilarious photos.
More Photos:
Jeremy, helping jump off the spaceship for a sweet alien family stranded outside a cornfield in Roswell, NM.
Jeremy teaching me survival skills: How to make a needle in thread out in the wild
I just LOVE this bark!!!
Let’s stay connected so you don’t miss an adventure! Feel free to tag me if you see something awesome I should check out, too!
I’m playing “catch up” with my blogs…I’ve had so many adventures this summer, that I haven’t had a moment to sit down & write about it!
One of my favorite trips was to Jemez Springs this spring.
The trip started off almost disastrously. We left as soon as Jeremy was off of work: I-25 North to the Bernilillo exit on Hwy 550, and then a right on Hwy 4.
However, I had researched some camping spots in advance and took us way north of Jemez to Seven Springs on 314. I was searching for tent camping areas that did not allow noisy RVs. I’ve since learned–because of this trip–to stop searching in advance…Google is rarely right.
So, north of Jemez is mountains, and as we climbed in altitude, the temperature dropped and a massive storm rolled in. It was summer back in Albuquerque, and felt like spring as we travelled north, but suddenly it was full-on winter. Our path up the mountain turned to snow and then to hail.
Luckily, we had JUST missed the hailstorm, and drove up right as it had ended. We located the campground…and wouldn’t you know it: There were RVs. However, there was no turning back now, since the sun was dropping quickly behind the mountains & the path we had taken up was now lost in snow and hail.
Luckily, one of the RVs had packed up during the torrential hailstorm and had headed down the mountain. The RVs were all very banged up and this one had seen enough damage and refused to sit the storm out. For us, that meant we had one rectangle of ground that was not covered in a thick blanket of ice. Even luckier: They had left all of their firewood behind. So, we set up our tent on the one patch and quickly started a fire.
Our toes were frozen!
However, since we were planning on a summer trip with lots of swimming, we were not properly prepared for winter camping. Jeremy was in his swim trunks and I was in a sundress over a bikini. Luckily, I always keep a spare pair of tights and jeans in my backpack, because situations like this have happened to me before. …You just never know what Mother Nature will throw at you.
Keeping CoCo warm…
The ground thick with snow & ice.
So, I put on my tights and generously offered my old high-school jeans (circa 2001) to Jeremy. Surprisingly, he was able to wiggle them on, though he looked like a little skater kid in those tight flare jeans! He was grateful for the coverage though because in 20 minutes, the sun was completely gone and it was absolutely freezing! The fire was top-priority and we spent much of the night sitting as close as we could keeping ourselves and our little dog warm. Eventually, we retired to the tent and slept in the same sleeping bag and relied solely on all of our body heat. (Growling at the disgusting sound of RV generators humming all night long). We woke up early and got the hey out of there!
Breakfast the next morning. The ice was melting a bit finally.
We sailed down the mountain and once we were back in Jemez, were grateful to be back in the spring/summer heat!
The first thing I wanted to check out in Jemez was McCauley Hot Springs. As usual, I did a lot of research before going and I knew that this was a very hard hot spring to find. Nearly every person who wrote about it said they either couldn’t find it or that they got very lost trying to find it.
Of course, we got lost. …But we found it!
How to Find McCauley Hot Springs
Here’s how to get to it: Go to Battleship Rock and park. Tip: Go north .2 miles and there’s a lot you can park in that you don’t have to pay the Battleship Rock parking fee. There’s a trail from that lot that goes down and takes you back to Battleship Rock. Go all the way through that parking lot/picnic table area and you’ll see a sign for East Fork Trail/Trail 137.
Take that and you’ll hug the base of Battleship Rock. Eventually, you’ll see a sign that says McCauley Springs 2 and you’ll feel relieved to know you’re on the right trail. …This is the last sign you’ll see and you are not even close.
At some point, the trail just kind of disappears. …This is where we got ‘lost’ for a moment. There were several other hikers also trying to find the hot springs that were also wandering around trying to figure it out. We all spread out till someone called out that he thought he found the way–and he did!
Here’s the key: There is a giant boulder (pictured above). Go to the left of the boulder. The dirt is very very red right here and you are back on the trail! You still have a way to go, too. But after we found this little switchback, we didn’t get lost again.
The red dirt trail that will get you back on track again.
My theory is that the park rangers don’t really want you to find it–or they don’t want many people to find it. Why else would it be such a poorly marked trail? I’d venture they would do that so that no too many people trash the place…because it is SO incredibly beautiful and serene. The water is naturally blue and full of minnows, and it’s located on top of the mountain with shady evergreens.
I think the hike up was about 3.5 miles–at a steep elevation–but it was so worth it!
The water isn’t very “hot” like some springs tend to be, but it was that perfect luke-warm temperature that makes you just want to bathe all day.
There were several hot springs that just had mini waterfalls from one to the next.
None of the pools were very deep–they were perfect for just sitting in (chest high).
After we made it back down the mountain (sooo much easier…), we knew we needed to find a camp site before the next nightfall. We stopped in town at a coffee shop and asked the local boys where they suggested we camp.
They pointed us in the direction of the Gilman Tunnels and said to park anywhere off that dirt State Road, which happens to follow along a river. Perfect!! (I’ve since stopped Googling for tent camping and just go find a local or a ranger to find out the best spots, such as this).
The drive to Gilman Tunnels was beautiful! You are driving along a rugged canyon and then suddenly go through a series of tunnels that have been blasted through the mountain.
Eventually we hit the gravel/dirt road and pulled off on one of the very first embankments and scrambled down. We instantly fell in love with the spot, found some stones to build the fire pit, and set up camp along the river.
ahhhhh marshmallows!
CoCo was in desperate need of a nap! She’d had enough hiking that day…
We set up a hammock that hung over the edge of the river. CoCo loves our hammock at home, so she was excited to see we had one outdoors, too!
We had lots of playtime in the river!
We eventually set up the mosquito net over the hammock and I had probably the best nap of my life! The breeze was perfect, the water was gurgling over the rocks, and my hammock was swinging gently… I want to go back now!
Jeremy sound asleep, too. …This was a day full of great naps. (Wake up, cook food on the fire, take a dip in the river, take another nap, repeat.)
The next day, we packed up and headed out to check out Spence Hot Springs. We continued on the State Road, though, and circled our way back to Hwy 4. I highly recommend you take this route because it is just a stunning drive! We were in awe the whole way.
Back on Hwy 4, you’ll see a sign that says “Dark Canyon Fishing Area” & between mile markers 24 & 25 you’ll see a parking lot that says “Parking sunrise to sunset - No nudity.” (Most of hot springs around here, you should expect nudity).
Once you’re here, finding Spence Hot Spring is easy–just follow the trail. Though Spence is a lot easier to get to than McCauley (and therefore, expect much more people there), it is possibly even more beautiful.
The natrual blue-green hot springs are located on the edge of a mountain and waterfall from one to the next with a spectacular view of the mountains around you! It almost has that “inifinity pool” effect….except, rather than being a pool that appears to stretch out into the ocean, your view stretches out into the mountains.
On the top pool, there is a crack in the stone. You can actually swim in to this little cave and sit in the water. …It’s a natural sauna! It actually feels exactly like the moist, hot air you breathe in a sauna. Plus, just sitting in a dark cave in the water is fun. There’s enough light coming in from the opening that you can still see inside and the water is too shallow to give you the heebie jeebies.
The Spence pools are deeper than McCauley and darker in color. The water was hotter as well.
After Spence Hot Springs, we travelled back South on Hwy 4 to Soda Dam. The dam was naturally formed in the Jemez River where minerals from a natural spring compounded and created a strange rock formation. There is a perfect hole in the formation that blocks the Jemez River and gushes into a high-powered waterfall. The spot below creates a great (and popular) swimming hole.
I suppose there is still some sort of hot spring/mineral effect happening, because when we wandered into the swimming hole, we could feel really, really hot water bubbling out of the sand bottom and into the cold river water. It really does feel bubbly–like soda–on top of the churning, frothy water coming from the waterfall. There were also strange cave-like sections on the formation that we checked out and we even climbed on top of the rock to get a look at both sides.
What we did NOT have time for, and will have to go back soon to check out, is the Jemez Falls and the Jemez Pueblo ruins. There was just SO much I wanted to jam pack into this trip, but as Jeremy painted on one of his surfboards: “Time is Never Enough.”
I’m going to start this story in reverse, because I can’t wait to tell you about Box Cañon Falls in Ouray, Colorado!
(It seems to be spelled both “Canyon” & “Cañon” interchangeably).
Ouray is an hour and 45 minutes north of Durango, and just 45 minutes from historic Silverton, which you pass on the way. In fact, the entire trip from Albuquerque was along Highway 505 (so no need for a map!).
The small mountain town of Ouray is nicknamed “Switzerland of America,” and once you drive over the final pass and see the historic buildings colorfully nestled into the basin of the towering San Juan Mountains…you’ll understand exactly why. The city is also nicknamed “The Jeep Capitol of the World” (there are tons of 4x4-only dirt roads to explore), and the “Gem of the Rockies.” In short, there’s a lot of awesome outdoor activities to get into while in the midst of unforgettable scenery.
I loved all of the Victorian architecture in Ouray…especially with the striking mountains as a backdrop! So picturesque.
Ouray has a large natural hot springs; however, it was very “Disney-fied.” It no longer had it’s natural look like, say, Pagosa Springs, Colorado, does. I’m sure it’s still quite a treat in the winter, as it seems that most people visit then for the incredible skiing and ice-climbing in the Uncompaghre Gorge (if you don’t want to climb, you can just watch these bad-mamma-jammas in awe).
But I wanted to see the Falls, and it did not disappoint!
For a few bucks, we went on a fairly easy hike that takes you to the middle of the canyon, all the way down to the base of the falls. The canyon feels more like a tunnel, since the walls are so close together and sort-of arch together at the top.
A see-through bridge with a railing tucks you safely into one of the canyon walls, but looking down at the water below gave me a bit of vertigo. The canyon has been designated an important bird area by the National Audobon Society, and we even saw a bird’s nest with a baby bird perched very close to the rail–probably the very rare nesting “Black Swift” that Audobon is protecting.
The roar of the waterfall is incredibly loud…and for good reason. The rushing waters of Canyon Creek eroded a deep and narrow box canyon through fault weakened limestone and come crashing down 285 feet. There are thousands of gallons a minute of water pouring through this small opening. Once at the base, we stood among deafening sound to soak up the mist. We just stood in awe of the power and beauty of this naturally aqua-blue water.
The hike to the base was easy, but the hike to the top was a bit more strenuous. Climbing over boulders at a steep angle, we reached the bridge overhanging the falls. If you’re afraid of heights, don’t do this. Looking down was pretty freaky. We were 300 feet above the Falls…which is almost another 300 feet down to the base.
Don’t. Look. Down.
See how far away the river is down there?!
At the end of the bridge is a tunnel that cuts through the mountain. You can continue on a beautiful hike around the property and there are several of periphery trails to check out, too. Unfortunately, we had to head home.
(More photos from the Falls at the end of this blog).
Silverton, Colorado
Now, since I’m writing my story in reverse, we stopped in historic Silverton, Colorado, on our way to Ouray.
There is a lovely historic steam train that takes you from Durango to Silverton, but the drive through the San Juan Mountains on Hwy 505 is just as scenic, I’m sure. When we were campin in Durango, we could hear the train choo-choo-ing and chugging by and we actually got to see it pull up in Silverton on our lunch stop!
Silverton reminded me a bit of downtown Nashville’s Broadway Street…full of honky-tonk-style buildings. Cowboy land. …You’d expect Clint Eastwood to come slowly walking down the street with clinging spurs and hands ready to draw his pistol.
It’s very different from the Victorian-style of Ouray. We stopped at a place called Handlebars to eat, and the super-packed place was appropriately decorated with lots of dead animals.
Camping in Durango, CO
Still going backwards….
Before we headed out to Silverton and Ouray, we camped out on a mountain top in Durango.
We took Hwy 505 to County Road 250 to Forest Road 682–also known as “Missionary Ridge Road.” I don’t know where it got that name, but I’m pretty sure I was doing the sign of the cross while we drove on this one-lane cliff-edge road that snakes its way to the top of a mountain….in the dark. I was terrified, because I could tell by the lights in the faraway distance, that if our tire slipped off this dirt road, we were going straight down.
It can be surprisingly hard to find online the legal spots for “dispersed” “backpacking” “undesignated” “back country” tent camping. As in, camping in a tent, away from the noisy RVs and the paved semi-circle with designated tent spots 100 feet from one another with picnic tables, electricity and water spigots. Real camping. So this random little spot was one of a few that I found suggestions for (I’ll list the others below for you). I don’t recommend driving it in the dark unless you know what you’re doing (Thankfully, Jeremy knows how to drive. I, on the other hand, would have killed us).
Here’s what it looked like when we woke up:
Those little white specks? Houses. Far, far down. Those branches in the foreground? The last thing you would feel on your way down. (eeeks!)
The spot we chose in the dark had 5- to 6-foot high grass and purple milk thistles…lovely!
Also lovely… ;)
Undesignated Camping Suggestions in the Durango area:
East of Durango
o Beaver Meadows Road, Forest Rd #135, east of Bayfield and north of U.S. Highway 160
North of Durango
o Missionary Ridge Road after milepost 3, Forest Rd #682, north of Durango off County Road 250
o Hermosa Park Road, Forest Rd #578, north of Durango behind Durango Mountain Resort (including limited sites at Upper Hermosa Trailhead)
o Cascade Divide Road, Forest Rd #579, north of Durango behind Durango Mountain Resort
West of Durango
o La Plata Canyon , north of Hesperus, County Road # 124 – dispersed camping allowed ONLY in posted dispersed camping sites (or designated campgrounds).
I even called a State Forest Ranger and she suggested the area around “Purgatory” ski area.
You could also look for camping spots around Mesa Verde. You can read my blog on this ancient cliff dwelling near Durango here.
Random tip: Stop by Honeyville outside of Durango. …the bees enter the building from the outside and have built their hives in a glass aquarium (much like an ant farm), so you can see them making honey in their honeycombs up close. You can also see their entire honey-making plant in action and sample it…it’s incredible. And we bought a massive jug of it to take home…
Let’s stay connected so you don’t miss an adventure! Feel free to tag me if you see something awesome I should check out, too!
Two weekends ago, both Jeremy and I happened to randomly have a weekday off, so we just pulled up one of my New Mexico-themed Pinterest boards and picked out a photo that looked intriguing.
…that photo was simply labeled “Nutria Canyon.” There wasn’t much about it online, but Google Maps pulled up a spot and so we headed out.
From Albuquerque, it’s a three-hour drive. Going West on I-40, we took a left on Exit 81 (Grants, NM). We continued on Hwy 53 West for exactly 75 miles and then took a right onto Nutria Road, a very long dirt road that eventually hit a dead-end at a barbed-wire fence.
At this point, I have to admit, I’m not sure whether Nutria Canyon is public or private property. Since I found photos on Pinterest and I read briefly about the Rio Nutria Preserve, I genuinely thought it was a public spot when I headed out. But the barbed wire fence could suggest otherwise? Anyways, we just picked up the barbed wire gate and closed it behind us and began our trek.
We descended quickly into a dense, green patch with somewhat stagnant water (A desert version of a swamp?). Soon, we were at the base of the canyon, where a thin spring trickled through and collected into larger pools surrounded by massive boulders. Those boulders were like pebbles compared to the height of the red walls of the canyon!
The green juxtaposed with the red rock was stunning and the twisted branches of the trees gave it a tropical feel…or perhaps that was my excitement of finding a bit of water in the desert.
We didn’t see anyone else on the thin trail, but there were plenty of initials engraved into one particular rock wall that proved we were not the only people seeking out this mysterious spot.
Rio Nutria & The Preserve (Beavers & Zuni Bluehead Suckers)
I couldn’t find out much about this canyon, but the water source is most likely the Rio Nutria (which means “beaver river” in Spanish, and seems to have been named in the 16th or 17th century). According to good ‘ole Wiki, Rio Nutria is a 32-mile-long southwestward-flowing stream originating on McKenzie Ridge just west of the Continental Divide (which we saw the sign for!) in the Cibola National Forest. Rio Nutria joins Rio Pescado to form the Zuni River on the Zuni Indian Reservation. Wiki also had some interesting old diary accounts of the reason this body of water was named “beaver river,” which, not surprisingly, is a great habitat for beavers.
The other interesting information I found online was that the Rio Nutria provides one of the last great habitats for the Zuni Bluehead Sucker. According to Nature.org, the “Rio Nutria Preserve encompasses approximately 1,712 acres of scenic sandstone canyons in the Zuni Mountains of west-central New Mexico. It protects just over four stream-miles of the upper Rio Nutria headwaters and almost a mile of the tributary Tampico Draw, including its confluence with the Rio Nutria.
The preserve provides essential habitat for the Zuni bluehead sucker, an endemic fish of the upper Little Colorado River. While pockets of Zuni bluehead sucker habitat and populations are found throughout the Rio Nutria watershed, the best quality and most extensive remaining habitat for the sucker are found in the preserve.Rio Nutria Preserve is adjacent to tribal lands of the Zuni Tribe.”
I must have mistaken these special little fishies for minnows, and we also saw a lot of crawdads/crawfish in the calm pools of water. The pools were not very deep, so don’t visit here if you’re looking for a swimming hole. …Which reminds me: It was VERY cool at the base of the canyon. We actually didn’t have any desire to get in the shallow water because the temperature dropped drastically as you climbed towards the canyon base.
“The Land of Fire & Ice” (Volcanoes & an Ice Cave)
On the way to Nutria Canyon, we saw many cheesy signs promoting an Ice Cave. We’d never seen one before, so we decided to check it out.
Located at 12000 Ice Caves Rd. in Grants, NM, the privately-owned property includes both the Banderas Volcano and the Ice Cave. It was a little pricey for an unplanned roadside attraction ($12 a person), but the opportunity to get out of the car and stretch our legs on a hike was a welcome idea, plus the Ice Cave certainly spiked my curiosity.
When you arrive, there is a quaint log cabin that acts as the gift shop/ticket counter. The old cabin, now serving as a trading post, was originally a saloon. …And the nearby Ice Cave provided the ice that kept the brews chilled!
The trading post is where you’ll pay for your ticket and they’ll give you a self-guided tour brochure of the property. The brochure has points-of-interest numbered with descriptions that correspond with numbered stumps you’ll come across on the trails. The trading post is full of contemporary Indian arts and natural souveniers like local rocks and arrowheads, but even more interesting is their display cases full of ancient artifacts they found on the property–many of which were discovered in lava. There were some fantastic pieces of pottery with extremely detailed artwork and patterns on them. You can also purchase jewelry, pottery, rugs and artwork from the local Indian tribes here.
If you go left out of their front door, you’ll head towards the Banderas Volcano. The trail takes you to the mouth of the volcano, which is 800 ft. in depth. Don’t worry: Banderas rose up in volcanic fury some 10,000 years ago. According to their site, it is one of the finest examples of an erupted volcano in the country, and also one of the most accessible.
If you go right out of their front door, you’ll head towards the Ice Cave. First, you’ll go through a field of black, hardened lava rocks that created fascinating formations as the lave cooled down. Then, you’ll descend into a collapsed lava tube and you’ll feel the temperature begin to drop drastically. Above ground, it was a scorching 95 degrees…but once we hit the base of the lava tube, it was literally freezing (which I LOVED after the hot hike up the volcano!). The Ice Cave consistently stays at 31 degrees.
It’s not a very deep cave–you won’t be spelunking or spending more than 10 minutes down there. It’s more of an outlook point, where you see a large pond of green-blue water that has been frozen. It looks like a green skating rink! There were a few icy formations towards the back.
The cool air felt so great we didn’t want to climb back up! It’s amazing that nature can create such a stark contrast so close to one another. “The Land of Fire & Ice” is an appropriate nickname for this place!
Nearby Attractions:
Cliff Dwelling (There was actually a lot to see along the way and we weren’t able to see it all in our day trip. One random “find” was a single ancient cliff dwelling. We happened to turn right on Canyon Road (in Ramah Valley) on our way to Nutria Canyon, and on a 90-degree curve we spotted a cliff dwelling! We pulled over to take a photo and there was only a small plaque on the ground informing us that the dwelling was from around 1200 AD and asking politely that we not disturb the ruins. This was super cool to “just find,” after recently seeing the larger, public cliff dwellings of Bandelier National Monument and Mesa Verde.)
El Malpais
Zuni Trailhead
El Calderon
El Morro National Monument (Pueblo ruins and the 2nd oldest national monument after Niagra Falls!)
Ramah, NM (Cute, tiny little town with one art gallery, two coffeeshops/cafes, and adorable little cabins for camping/rental. It’s just down the road from El Morro National Monument).
More Photos:
Nutria Canyon
Barbed wire fence that marks the beginning of the trail.
The Land of Fire & Ice:
Photos from the road trip:
UFO? Mushroom cloud from bombing? …Not the first time that would have happened in New Mexico… ;)
Ramah, NM
How cute are these rental cabins??
Let’s stay connected so you don’t miss an adventure! Feel free to tag me if you see something awesome I should check out, too!
Hidden in the Sandia Mountains, just a short drive down historic Route 66 from Albuquerque, New Mexico, is Carlito Springs Open Space – a mermaid lagoon in the middle of the desert.
The springs just recently opened in August of 2014, so very few people know about it or have visited it yet (so you’ll likely see no, or few, hikers along the way).
The trailhead begins with a stone pathway and the steep incline of the trail is made easier by lovely stone steps. The trail follows a trickling stream with a few bridges in a lush forest. Going in mid-June, the trail was bursting with wild flowers!
Eventually, you’ll come across old brick walls, which create terraces grading the steep property. Once at top, you’ll see the green colored cabins and a fabulous view overlooking the Tijeras Canyon. Go a few steps further and you’ll find the springs trickling down a mossy waterfall surrounded by ivy. the stream trickles down into about four little ponds, two of which have railings that appear to be made by braided whisteria vines (and then covered with concrete for preservation?). Stone steps take you to the different levels of ponds–two of which are deep enough for getting in.
The water is crystal-clear and has a blue-green tint to it. When we
went, it was surrounded by pink, lavender and white wildflowers spilling
out over the ancient brick walls. The third spring was freezing (which
was welcome, after the hot hike), and the fourth one seemed warmer
(either it warmed up on its journey down the waterfall; or I was just
numb and no longer had feeling…).
It’s not quite swim-able, but it was perfect for a waist- or chest-high dip and wading.
The whole area is so picturesque, with so much greenery reflecting in the water…I almost forgot I was in New Mexico!
I highly recommend spending a hot summer day at this “mermaid lagoon!”
History, Directions & Video below:
History:
The springs were first claimed by Horace
Greenwood Whitcomb in 1882, where he formed Camp Whitcomb. The camp had
six cabins, a stable and a graded road. People would get to this
campsite by horse and carriage, and the springs served as the water
source for the camp’s inhabitants and horses.
Carlton Cole Magee
bought the property in 1930. Magee founded the Albuquerque Tribune and
invented the parking meter (…arrrgh…). Magee renamed the springs
“Carlito” after his son, who died in a plane crash.
The site has served as a camp, a resort, a boys’
school, a turberculosis sanatorium and a private residence. Along with
the main house and cabins, the property includes an orchard, the spring,
ponds, fountains, ornamental gardens and stunning trails.
Bernalillo
County purchased the property in 2000 for $1.5 million, to be used for
the Open Space Program, funded through a property tax levy. A cultural
landscape assessment was conducted before any renovations were made to
ensure the history of the site would remain untouched. So, 14 years
after this purchase, the park finally opened up its lower parking lot
and hiking trail to the spring. The full loop is 1.7 miles and has
stunning views of the surrounding foothills while also following a
trickling stream with stone pathways and bridges.
The next phase (which I’m
not sure when this is planned), will include finishing the water and
sewage system so the main house will be operational. Currently, all the
windows at the house and cabins are boarded up.
Directions:
The nearest address is 82
Carlitos Springs Road, Tijeras, New Mexico 87059. You’ll head down I-40
East from Albuquerque, and take Exit 175 ( also the exit to take for
historic Turquoise Trail/Hwy 14, if you take a left). Take a right on
Hwy 333 for a second, and turn immediately right on Hwy 337/Route 66.
Soon, you’ll take a right on Pub School Road/Carlito Springs Road.
You’ll go under the Interstate and take a brief right on the frontage
road. Look to your left for the very small State Park sign designating
the road to Carlito Springs’ parking lot.
The shortest route
to the springs is to take your first left from the trailhead. It’s just a
15-minute hike to the springs from here.
The trail is dog-friendly, but there are several signs asking that they remain on the leash and that you pick up after them.
What are these??
Boarded up cabins.
Let’s stay connected so you don’t miss an adventure! Feel free to tag me if you see something awesome I should check out, too!
This weekend, Jeremy and I traveled 3.5 hours south of Albuquerque to Alomogordo, New Mexico, where the White Sands National Monument stretches out with 275 square miles of white gypsum sand dunes.
There are 10 campsites available at a first-come-first-serve basis for backcountry campers who want to hike the chalk-white dunes of gypsum crystals and sleep under the stars…with no trees, no water, and no fire. The hike is strenuous–requiring a lot of calf-work as you dig your bare feet into steep sandy hills–and long. We were at campsite number 6, which is the furthest hike from the trailhead. On top of it all, you need to pack as much on your back as possible, including several gallons of water for each person.
Depending on the time of year, there can be heatwaves of 110 degrees by midday or plunging cold desert nights. Going in early June, the high was a little over 90, with a low of 66….I think we chose the perfect time of year. Regardless, the New Mexico sun is intense (and the sand is reflective), so we had to make a special stop in town for an extra bottle of Waterbabies SPF 50.
One of the reasons so many visitors come to White Sands is for the dune-sledding. The Visitor’s Center sells plastic disks for $15 and a square of wax for a buck, and you can spend the day sliding down the dunes (the steeper it is, the faster you go, obviously).
Before deciding to camp, be sure to check out the website because the area is regularly closed off to the public because of the Missile Range. The site tells you when there is missile testing, so plan accordingly and check back often.
Everyone is warned to keep an eye on the mountains/the sun/the stars, because many people get lost each year as they wander into dune field. After a while, the dunes start to all look the same and it’s easy to get turned around. We never ventured too far from “the trail,” which is really just some sticks that are visible in the distance on the tops of dunes. The wind is always covering up any tracks, so there is no true trail to follow. We were told to set up our tent no more than 5 feet from our marked pole, and to be at camp before sundown so as not to get lost. I wish I had clocked how far our campsite was from the trailhead….at least a mile, if not more.
Other warnings we heeded: To empty your shoes and keep the tent zipped up, in an effort to avoid scorpions. We didn’t see any scorpions, but we spotted several white gecko camouflaged in the sand, and large black beetles. The morning we packed up there was a massive black spider on our sleeping bag….NOT cool.
It was certainly a different camping experience for us… Nothing like camping in the lush woods of Alabama on a large body of water with plenty of firewood. Not having a campfire was great, though, because our eyes were plunged into complete darkness and we saw more stars in the sky than we have ever in our life. It was breathtaking! Eventually, I pulled out my smartphone to use the SkyView app, which tells you which constellations you are looking at, where the planets are, and the trajectory of certain stars. This was a great suggestion from a coworker of mine.
If you’re not coming to White Sands for sand-sledding, then you’re probably coming for the incredible photography opportunities. At sunset and sunrise, the lighting is incredible–revealing all the ripples in the dunes and causing sharp contrasts with the edges. Being both a creative and a model, I didn’t want to miss this opportunity for some great photo opps. I stuffed a sheer, pale pink dress into my backpack and Jeremy appeased my craziness by playing along as photographer. He’s always had an artistic eye, so I had a feeling we could make some magic… and we did.
The sunset over the dunes was one of the most beautiful things my eyes have ever witnessed. The beauty was so overwhelming that I actually started crying.
CoCo served as our jester for the trip. She kept us laughing as she truly thought the sand disc was a giant frisbee–a present just for her! She played with it for two days and had too much fun with her giant plastic toy. On our long hike back, a massive red ant bit one of her front paws (and latched on!). The poor baby had never been bitten or stung before and she pouted and refused to hike any further. To my amazement, she stayed on the sled when I decided to set her there and even seemed to enjoy the ride! Jeremy pulled her the whole way back to the car…which included some extremely fast, extremely steep dunes! CoCo’s face was cracking us up as she slid down the dunes wide-eyed. She was definitely having a blast!
(And for those worried: The sand was not hot; she had plenty of water, and I kept pouring water on her face and back to keep her cool).
Every camping trip has its hiccups–this time we only had minor ones: We forgot the guitar and we forgot the cooking pan and we forgot our bread. Since you can’t have fires here (to prevent black scarring of the dunes), we brought a little propane grill to cook with. We survived by cutting open one of my beer cans and turning it into a miniature pot for making scrambled eggs. We just rolled our sandwich meat up with the cheese, jalapenos, avocado and tomato and had fancy wraps, rather than sandwiches. Crisis averted. Instead of music, we had conversation under the stars. Perfect, after all.
Rising from the heart of the Tularosa Basin is one of the world’s great
natural wonders: The world’s largest gypsum dunefield. According to Wiki, gypsum is rarely found in the form of sand because it is water-soluble.
Normally, rain would dissolve the gypsum and carry it to the sea. The
Tularosa Basin is enclosed, meaning that it has no outlet to the sea and
that rain that dissolves gypsum from the surrounding San Andres and Sacramento Mountains
is trapped within the basin. Thus water either sinks into the ground or
forms shallow pools which subsequently dry out and leave gypsum in a
crystalline form, called selenite, on the surface. Groundwater that does flow out of the Tularosa Basin flows south into the Hueco Basin. During the last ice age,
a lake known as Lake Otero covered much of the basin. When it dried
out, it left a large flat area of selenite crystals which is now the Alkali Flat. Another lake, Lake Lucero,
at the southwest corner of the park, is a dry lake bed, at one of the
lowest points of the basin, which occasionally fills with water.
Unlike dunes made of quartz-based sand crystals (like what we’re used to on the hot beaches of Gulf of Mexico), the gypsum does not
readily convert the sun’s energy into heat and thus can be walked upon
safely with bare feet, even in the hottest summer months.
Carlsbad Caverns (3 hours away) & Roswell (Great if you are on a roadtrip and want another interesting place for backcountry camping) Stay tuned for an upcoming blog on this!
More Photos:
p.s. Highly recommend the green chile cheeseburger at Buckhorn’s Tavern, in San Antonio, New Mexico. Apparently voted the world’s 7th best in America. …We loved it!
Let’s stay connected so you don’t miss an adventure! Feel free to tag me if you see something awesome I should check out, too!
There’s a lot of hot spots, you’ll see lots of big shots,
Down on Bour -bon Street.
I first heard this song, “Bourbon Street Parade,” crooned by an old Louis Armstrong-sound-alike, in the Preservation Hall by the famous Preservation Hall Jazz Band. The eight-line song features solos by the Dixieland jazz clarinetist, the upright bassist, the sassy trumpeter, the hot-fingered pianist, the slippery trombonist, a sexy saxophonist, and the energized drummer. And there’s plenty of doo-wop and call-and-repeat to top it all off.
I stood in the back of that historic hall in the pitch black, shoulder-to-shoulder with strangers (and the new friends I had made twenty minutes prior, across the street at Yo Mama’s bar). Pressed against one another, everyone was bouncing in place and swaying to the Dixieland beats…the spirit of New Orleans seeping into a bones before we boogied out onto Bourbon Street.
Preservation Hall may have preserved this classic style of jazz, but New Orleans is a city full of all types of music….and it never ends. Every strain of jazz can be heard on nearly every street corner. Many of the musicians have claimed their corners and can be found day after day, year after year, on the same cobblestones with the same paint bucket collecting tips.
A video posted by Meg Nordmann (@megnordmann) on Apr 19, 2015 at 4:53pm PDT
Bourbon Street is spilling with blues, but muddied by the sounds of dance clubs with pop, rock, and rap. Royal Street usually features an Asian violinist who probably performed at Carnegie Hall and realized she’d make more money playing for the music lovers in New Orleans. Talented solo musicians of all kinds post up in empty door frames, hoping for a buck to be thrown their way.
Frenchman Street usually has African American high-schoolers with their marching band instruments in tow. Twelve to twenty of them will fill the street with a jazz beat so viral, that the bars will empty until the street becomes a drunken dance party. At some point, you may see an unofficial parade marching your way…don’t be embarrassed to join in and march a few blocks–or a few miles–if you feel so inclined.
Impromptu party on Frenchman Street.
Mardi Gras is year-round. Not technically, but there is no time of year when beads aren’t being tossed from balconies. The city inspires infinite gluttony and alcoholism…the type that was supposed to be reserved for just Fat Tuesday and then ceased by Ash Wednesday.
If you haven’t finished your drink, don’t fret: You can take it with you. Grab a Hurricane if you have a sweet tooth, visit a stand for a large Hand Grenade, or sip on an absinthe-based Sazerac.
Photo credit: The Carousel Bar & Lounge
But whatever you do, be sure to drink a Vieux Carre at the Carousel Bar on Royal Street. An elegant fixture of the Hotel Monteleone’s lobby for over 65 years, the antique carousel is New Orleans’ only revolving bar. Its 25 coveted seats feature bright detailed paintings of circus animals, and the top of the Merry-Go-Round is intricately carved with cherubs. The rotation is barely perceptible to the eye when you first walk in, but after a few Vieux Carres…you’ll quickly become dizzy, like a child at the fair. There is not even a way for the bartenders to get in and out of the bar, so they’ll ask a patron to please stand a moment, while they hop over to retrieve more ice. Vogue Magazine recommends their Sazerac, but I’ve fallen in love with the Vieux Carre, which was invented by one of their bartenders in 1938 and features Bulliet Rye Whiskey, Hennessey, Sweet Vermouth, Benedictine, Angostrua & Peychaud’s Bitters. …All you need is one. ;)
A remarkable antique grandfather clock in the Hotel Monteleone’s lobby. My dad actually spoke with the living family members of the artist who carved this masterpiece…it was fascinating to hear their story.
The Hotel Monteleone
For Sazerac–the Louisiana Legislature declared it the official cocktail of New Orleans in 2008–I recommend Napoleon House on Chartres Street. Famous for its Pimms Cup, I again diverge to a personal favorite. A recommendation by my dear Uncle Bucky, who lived in New Orleans for many years (and even managed the Playboy Club there), I have found he knows what he’s talking about in regards to N’awlins. Another recommendation he had for this place? Their muffuletta. It’s to-die-for. The inside of the restaurant is crumbling and rustic and covered in old art and antiques. Outside is a cozy little courtyard and fountain. The coolest thing, however, is the 200-year old building’s history: Its first occupant, Nicholas Girod, was mayor of New Orleans
from 1812 to 1815…and he offered his residence to Napoleon in 1821 as a
refuge during his exile (Napoleon never made it, but the name stuck).
I had a delicious Maker’s Pimms Cup while at Royal House, which of course is on Royal Street. On this particular trip, I was with coworkers…and even with work company, it felt romantic. We were seated by wide-open floor-to-ceiling French doors that opened up to the sidewalk and overlooked a park full of Magnolia trees and ironwork. Outside, a violinist serenaded our whole evening (and we tipped her well for it, afterwards.) We had fried alligator and sampled jambalaya, gumbo and oysters…everything was divine. Just before dinner, we heard a band on the corner and I jumped into a parade for a few blocks…perfect way to work up that appetite!
For my birthday, my friend Justin & I drove up to Colorado where his friends graciously let us crash while we checked out the Durango area. The drive up included snow, but by the time we made it to historic Durango, the sun was shining.
For lunch, we stopped at Grassburger—which I must rave about! Impeccable service…movie star treatment. We had CoCo with us, so we were set up outside and enjoyed free-range grass-fed burgers, sweet potato fries and local brews.
Just behind the restaurant is a legal retail & medical marijuana dispensary…the first one I’d ever seen in the U.S. Different from an Amsterdam coffee shop, we were brought into a numbered waiting room, which felt a little hospital-like. The staff was very knowledgeable, friendly and professional as they let us quiz them on all the strains and edibles they had displayed in a glass case.
The historic downtown area along Main Street is lined with quaint storefronts and a choo-choo-train runs right through it (yes, a choo-choo-train. As in, the antique-style with smoke billowing out the front). The train runs to historic Silverton, which is another trip I’d love to take someday. Just behind the town are blocks and blocks of adorable cottages along tree-lined sidewalks with gardens spilling over with spring flowers. The mountains serve as a backdrop in all directions.
That afternoon, we had reservations for ziplining at Full Blast Adventure Center. The guides were high-energy and played lots of pranks on us to keep our adrenaline up (in an otherwise super-safe activity). We ziplined through the green treetops of Colorado for 2.5 hours and had a blast! “George, George, George of the Jungle, Watch out for that treeeee!” was stuck in my head all day!
The next morning we drove 45 minutes outside of Durango to Mesa Verde. This state park has over 600 cliff dwellings embedded into the mountainside ranging from 600AD to 1300. After paying the nominal $4 Tour-Guide fee (needed for the more strenuous hikes), we then had to drive another hour up the mountain to get to the ruins. Again, we were hit with crazy snow…only for it to clear up and warm right up. …Heater-AC-Heater-AC… wishy-washy weather!!
With an hour to kill before our guided hike, we walked down to Spruce Tree House, an easy-to reach cliff dwelling that was pretty off-limits, but breathtaking nonetheless. They did have a kiva you could actually go into, where they rebuilt the wooden roof (you’ll see in the ruins that they look like giant holes now).
Several of the cliff-dwellings were closed to the public until later this month, but the Balcony House had just re-opened. Our guide, John, was extremely knowledgeable and fun. His passion for the history of these ancient peoples was apparent and he shared with us his many theories on why certain things were built the way they were–but emphasized that, for the most part, “we don’t know” the true answers to many things surrounding these ancient Native Americans.
To get to the Balcony House, you had to go down a few flights of metal stairs along the mountain side, then climb up some wooden ladders. There was a crevice you had to crab-walk through and a teeny tiny tunnel you had to crawl through (they made sure at the gate that you were fit enough to get through the tunnel before selling you tickets). Here we were actually able to wander through the many rooms and get a close-up feel for what it was like to live in a mountain crevice high above a canyon. Careful not to touch anything and destroy this impeccably well-kept ruin, we were able to poke our heads into rooms and see original red and white plaster and diamond shaped designs on the walls. The masonry was incredibly well-done and the view was priceless. (See video).
We then drove back through Durango and then onward to Pagosa Springs, Colorado–where the world’s deepest natural hot springs are. This was my first time experiencing a hot spring and I couldn’t believe how hot it was! Several of the pools were around 110 degrees, and others hovered around 98. You could also jump into the river…but it was freezing from the snow running off the mountain. Volcano-looking rock formations rose out of the water and were colored with yellows and greens from the sulphur and other minerals building up. The hot water juxtoposed with the crisp air resulted in a constant cloud of foggy steam. We watched the sun set over the river and didn’t leave until the stars came out…what a relaxing way to end my birthday weekend!
That’s the “oh dear god it’s so effing cold” face right there…
More photos from Balcony House:
More photos from Spruce Tree House:
Mountain views:
(stretches of the forest burned in 2003 and still have not regrown)
More photos from Durango:
More photos from ziplining:
Let’s stay connected so you don’t miss an adventure! Feel free to tag me if you see something awesome I should check out, too!
